Dozen Roses Scarf in Deflected Doubleweave

In deflected doubleweave, blocks from two layers alternate in both warp and weft. The blocks from each layer lie side by side on the loom but shift or “deflect” around each other during wet-finishing to form wavy, curvy shapes. When yarns that shrink are used in just one of the layers, the options go three-dimensional. The trick is to sett the shrinking yarns much more openly than the nonshrinking yarns. Because results don’t reveal themselves until wet-finishing, sampling is the best way to avoid expensive mishaps with precious yarns. You can expect success if you use spun silk or cotton for the nonshrinking yarn and merino wool as the shrinker.

STRUCTURE
Deflected doubleweave.

EQUIPMENT
8-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles, 4 bobbins.

YARNS
Warp: 30/2 bombyx silk (7,500 yd/lb, Treenway Silks), #20 Bordello and #43 Harlequin, 477 yd each; 18/2 merino wool (5,040 yd/lb, Superfine Merino, JaggerSpun), Black, 78 yd. Weft: 30/2 bombyx silk, #20 Bordello and #43 Harlequin, 700 yd total; 18/2 merino wool, Black, 51 yd; Peacock, 23 yd.

SETTS
Warp: 12 epi (1/dent in a 12-dent reed) for merino; 32 epi (2-3-3/dent in a 12-dent reed) for silk; the silk threading groups end in the middle of this denting order. Weft: 12 ppi for merino; 26 ppi for silk.

DIMENSIONS
Width in the reed: 8 2⁄3". Woven length: 120". Finished size after wet finishing: 3 1⁄2" × 53" plus 3⁄8" fringe.